Last Updated 11/23/09 7:00 PM
Tools
Workshop
Home Improvement
Gardening
Woodworking
How Your House Works
Home Journal How-To Central
Home Journal
Workshop
Home Improvement
Gardening
Woodworking
How Your House Works
Home Journal How-To Central
Home Journal
Checklist: Basement Finishing, Waterproofing and De-Molding
Published in the March 2007 issue.
Email
Print
Buzz up!
this story
this story
ALSO SEE...
Retrieving stories...KEYWORDS
Q: I am finishing my basement. To do that, I have to deal with some drywall that got wet from a plumbing leak. The leak has been fixed, but mildew is growing on the drywall. Should I replace the drywall, or can I clean it?
A: Replace the drywall. Once you remove it, thoroughly inspect the wall or ceiling cavity behind it to be sure the moisture problem has been corrected. There's no sense in finishing the basement until the leak has been cleared up.
Many homeowners who finish their basement are disappointed by the results when, after a few years, the room starts to smell musty because of mold in wall cavities or beneath the floor. Mold usually can be traced to condensation forming in wall or floor cavities or from groundwater leaks.
Before you begin, check with your building department about what the building code requires in terms of insulation and moisture barriers where you live. There isn't a single code for all climates in the United States.
The list of construction details for a finished basement can be quite a long one:
The ground should slope away from the foundation on all sides.
Downspouts should discharge water at least 10 ft. away from the foundation wall.
The foundation wall should have a moisture barrier coating or be protected with an impervious surface material such as a rubber membrane.
All cracks in the foundation wall or between the wall and the footing should be repaired.
The foundation drain system should be clear and free-flowing. The water should discharge to a point where there is no risk of it saturating soil near the foundation.
A sump pit should have a snug-fitting cover.
Cold-water pipes and well tanks should be properly insulated to prevent condensation from forming on them.
Single-pane basement windows should be replaced with insulated glass windows. Likewise, replace noninsulated doors from the basement to the outside.
A stairwell leading from the basement to the outside should be roofed or at least have a floor drain to remove water.
Finally, the basement should be ventilated during construction to remove moisture evaporating from lumber, drywall compound, paint and other materials.
A: Replace the drywall. Once you remove it, thoroughly inspect the wall or ceiling cavity behind it to be sure the moisture problem has been corrected. There's no sense in finishing the basement until the leak has been cleared up.
Many homeowners who finish their basement are disappointed by the results when, after a few years, the room starts to smell musty because of mold in wall cavities or beneath the floor. Mold usually can be traced to condensation forming in wall or floor cavities or from groundwater leaks.
Before you begin, check with your building department about what the building code requires in terms of insulation and moisture barriers where you live. There isn't a single code for all climates in the United States.
The list of construction details for a finished basement can be quite a long one:
The ground should slope away from the foundation on all sides.
Downspouts should discharge water at least 10 ft. away from the foundation wall.
The foundation wall should have a moisture barrier coating or be protected with an impervious surface material such as a rubber membrane.
All cracks in the foundation wall or between the wall and the footing should be repaired.
The foundation drain system should be clear and free-flowing. The water should discharge to a point where there is no risk of it saturating soil near the foundation.
A sump pit should have a snug-fitting cover.
Cold-water pipes and well tanks should be properly insulated to prevent condensation from forming on them.
Single-pane basement windows should be replaced with insulated glass windows. Likewise, replace noninsulated doors from the basement to the outside.
A stairwell leading from the basement to the outside should be roofed or at least have a floor drain to remove water.
Finally, the basement should be ventilated during construction to remove moisture evaporating from lumber, drywall compound, paint and other materials.
Add Comment
Got a DIY project or need some inspiration to get started on one? Upload your project with photos and even video, then show off against other PM readers to win prizes!
ADVERTISEMENT
PM Ad Partner Links
Current Issue
Out Now: Crash Course
In December, PM tackles plane crashes. What happened to Air France Flight 447, and what new technologies can help prevent similar disasters? Also look for 20 Macgyver repair tips, and our annual holiday gift guide. 